Rufnit Kennels Braque du Bourbonnais – House Training Your Rufnit Puppy
House Training Basics Your Rufnit Puppy
The Direct Method:
The direct house training method requires you to be nearby to supervise and reward good habits from the beginning.
Provide frequent opportunity to eliminate in an appropriate place and reward this behavior immediately as it occurs. To do this, walk your puppy on a leash at regular intervals. Other methods may seem easier and may appear to demand less initial investment of time. The direct training method, however, is sure to save you time and energy in the long run.
Frequent Opportunities to Go Out:
Puppies require more frequent walks until they are able to reliable control their sphincters. This usually occurs around ~6 months of age. The best method of house training is to take your puppy out within several minutes after each meal and each nap. These are predictable moments during the day when bowel and bladder are most full. A wave of rhythmic contractions along the length of the digestive tract (the gastrocolic reflex) begins when the food or water is swallowed. The contractions are particularly strong after eating, which explains why a bowel movement is so likely after the puppy eats. Feed your puppy at scheduled mealtimes and avoid snacks between feedings. The gastrocolic reflex may be conditioned by feeding your puppy at regular intervals. Prevent “accidents” between meals by taking your pup out before the accidents occur (prevention is easier than cure).
Learning to Walk on a Leash:
It is best to leash walk your puppy within 15 minutes or sooner after each meal. Continue to walk, incorporating play to make it fun, until the puppy has eliminated. If your puppy is too young to walk on a leash, carry it outside to an enclosed safe area. Stay nearby and play with or pet it. Additional activity will help to stimulate bowel movements when your pup is already outside. Be sure not to distract it, however, if it begins to sniff the ground or crouch to void. If your pup is slow adjusting to leash walks, be patient. Avoid pulling the leash and allow your pup to take its time. When the pup prepares to eliminate, begin praising it in a happy and light voice. Your tone should be soft and quiet so your pup won’t stop before it is done in response to your over enthusiastic praise. Continue your praise until the task is completed. Immediate encouragement is necessary for your pup to learn to eliminate in a acceptable area. As your dog eliminates, pleasantly say something like “hurry up and potty” and give abundant praise. This teaches the pup to void on command so that you won’t freeze unnecessarily on a cold winter night while your pup leisurely looks for just the right spot. If your pup is initially afraid of the leash, leave the leash on indoors for brief periods of time (with direct supervision) without holding onto it. When the pup becomes more accustomed to the collar and leash, take the pup on brief leash walks indoors before graduating to outside. Daily leash walks throughout a dog’s life help maintain good elimination habits.
Accidents Will Happen:
Puppies need to learn these skills and need time to physically be able to control their sphincters. Punishing the pup for accidentally eliminating in the house and then taking it immediately outside is a common and unfortunate practice. Some owners believe that pressing the pups nose into it’s own waste discourages it. Others punish by using a stern loud voice or by hurriedly grabbing a pup while it is urinating or defecating. Punishment is often followed by whisking the puppy outside into a big and frightening world, where the irritated owner impatiently awaits appropriate behavior. Although this may be intended to teach the puppy not to eliminate indoors, the puppy may associate the punishment with going out and may learn to fear going outside. A confused and frightened pet is even more likely to spontaneously void when it is threatened! The dog might even learn to fear eliminating in your presence.
It is pointless to punish your dog at any age for “accidents” that occur in your home. This is particularly true when there is any delay between the act of soiling and your discovery of the mess. To be effective, punishment (and praise, for the matter) must follow your pet’s action immediately. Punishment, however, is not helpful in house training. No matter how frustrated you may be, clean up the mess (without letting the pup see you) and concentrate on the steps to prevent another one.
Crate training is started at Rufnit Kennels. Crate training is based on the premise that puppies are unlikely to eliminate in or near an area used for rest. Crate training is popular among owners who cannot continually remain nearby to take the puppy directly outside as described above. Some owners place the pup in a crate while they are away at work or when they will be absent for short periods of time. A puppy that naturally resists voiding inside the crate may eventually adjust to longer periods of crate confinement when you are absent. At the least, a crate will contain any mess and can prevent destructive behavior, too. This method works well with some dogs, but not for all.
* Many young pups are simply unable to control their immature sphincters, especially when they are anxious or frightened.* Some pups may soil themselves and even ingest their own waste. For these pups, the direct training method is preferable and crate training should be abandoned.* Pups should not be crated for more than two to three hours at a time. If you must confine your pup for long periods, try to rearrange your plans to visit it on your lunch hour, for example, and go for a nice long walk. If necessary, ask a neighbor, friend, or relative to help you. If no one can help you, professional pet sitters are an option until your pup is an adult. Still, even an adult dog should not be crated for more than six to eight hours at a stretch.* Some pups do not tolerate any type of confinement, becoming very agitated and excessively vocal. If the pup initially objects to being confined in the crate, you will encourage undesirable attention seeking behavior, such as whining or barking, by visiting or otherwise comforting the crated pup. Wait a few moments until it is quiet and calm before checking that all is well. This way you will not encourage undesirable behavior, nor will you defeat the potential usefulness of the crate. If your puppy objections seem excessive or unacceptable to you, apply other house training techniques instead.
A Safe Place:
Choose a crate that is constructed solidly out of materials that are easy to clean and disinfect. In case your pet does panic inside its crate, the crate must stand up to any escape attempts and not result in injury because of sharp edges, for example.
To introduce your dog to the crate, associate the crate with positive things, such as food and safe shelter. Leave the door open until there is no sign of fear. Cover a section of the floor with comfortable and easily laundered bedding, such as a towel or blanket. Play with your pup, tossing favorite toys into the crate for it to retrieve. Place food and water in the crate to encourage your pet to consider it a safe place. This also decreases the likelihood that your dog will soil inside the cage. When the puppy enters the crate without hesitation at mealtime, gently close the door while it eats. Keep the door closed for gradually longer periods. Let the pup out when it is calm and quiet.
The crate is your dog’s special place where it must never be disturbed or threatened. The crate must not be linked with punishment or your dog will avoid it. Encourage your dog to use the crate as a resting-place. When the pup is ready to nap, place it in the crate with a favorite toy or treat. Never place your pup in the crate or try to remove it from the crate when you are angry. Do not reach in and pull your dog out of its crate. A dog that is threatened in its crate may aggressively resist leaving it. Teach your dog to willingly leave the crate on your command, using a simple “come” in a happy tone of voice.
Umbilical Cord Method:
This method of house training is best used with the other techniques detailed above. Attach your pup to a long leash that is tied to your wrist or waist. This allows it a certain amount of freedom while ensuring your constant supervision over its activities. The pup cannot wander away and have an undetected “accident” and you can anticipate the pups need to void, taking it directly outside. Your pet can also enjoy the extra time and attention. This will benefit not only its house training, but also the bond between you and your pet.
Note: Rufnit Companions have had the foundation training to implement the above “General Information.” It is NOT recommended to impose the above methods on a pup that has not been previously conditioned.
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Braque du Bourbonnais
the FIRST litters of
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Braque du Bourbonnais’
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There are many reputable breeders of fine upland hunting dogs throughout North America. Unfortunately in this business like so many others, the buyer needs to be aware. Make sure that the puppy comes from a line of dogs that have good health credentials. There should be a good history in the pedigree of dogs that perform in the field (field trials, hunt tests, etc.). As a rule, avoid “backyard breeders.” Leave the art and science of breeding to the breeders experienced with the breed and have produced proven progeny. Take the time to make contacts and see if there are any consistent problems reported about the particular breeder you have selected. NAVHDA (North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association) is the foundation registry and testing organization for the Braque du Bourbonnais in North America. We sell to only responsible owners and utilize the “Breeding Restriction” registration offered by the registries. Rufnit Kennels assumes a lifetime responsibility for the canine lives we place on this earth. We require the dog/pup be returned to Rufnit Kennels should a situation arise and a dog/puppy need to be relocated.
Remember that the least expensive part of the cost of a dog is its initial price. Vet bills, feeding, kenneling, training etc. are what really cost the most. Our advice: Do your research, you and your companion will benefit in the long run.
Rufnit Kennels, LLC BdB * C/O Shari Stueck * 5900 Saltillo Road * Lincoln NE 68516-9209 * (402) 423-0995 or (402) 560-8652